How did $1370 knickers become the world’s third-hottest fashion item?
Miu Miu’s unlikely nylon briefs are a highly coveted piece of clothing right now. A closer look at the brand’s strategies shows why that’s not so surprising.
By now, fans of luxury fashion are well accustomed to the eye-watering prices of their favourite brands.
In recent years, a classic Chanel handbag has tripled to cost about $16,500, while Hermes’ turbocharged increases did nothing to halt sales rising by 17 per cent in the final quarter of last year.
With designer dresses routinely exceeding $5000, and even hoodies costing up to $3500, most fashion lovers would concede that when it comes to checking the price tag of those coveted items on their wish list, absolutely nothing would surprise them.
That is, until they clapped eyes on Miu Miu’s $1370 pants. No; these are not “pants” in the usual sense, with a waistband, a zip and two legs – features that might, at least, go some way to justifying their cost. They’re not even Bridget Jones-eque “big knickers”, but as skimpy as they come. Low of hip, high of leg and snug of bottom, they conjure images of deeply bronzed sunbathers in ’80s Ibiza, an impression further enhanced by their colours, which include canary yellow, pistachio green, pillar box red, and bright orange.
Mui Mui nylon briefs will set you back $1370.
But if you’re imagining that the pants’ exorbitant prices and challenging proportions have created a perfect storm of disinterest, you’d be wrong. According to fashion technology company Lyst, Miu Miu’s pants are riding high – or rather, low – as the third-hottest fashion item in the world.
These are the findings of the Lyst Index, a quarterly report that analyses the online shopping behaviour of more than 200 million shoppers, aggregating search, browse and purchase histories with social media mentions and engagement statistics to collate a final result.
Those opining that the world has finally gone mad should note that while a pair of overpriced yellow pants might seem frivolous, the thinking behind them is anything but. Fashion is a highly serious business; one of the largest industries in the world. At a time when tough economic conditions have left even storied brands such as Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent struggling – parent company Kering recently announced group profits are likely to drop by 40 to 45 per cent – it’s particularly salient to see which brands are doing well.
Korlan Madi models a tan trench coat, Miu Miu top, Miu Miu orange underwear, black heels and Miu Miu bag outside the Miu Miu show in March. Getty
The brand doing best of all is Miu Miu: its owner, the Prada Group, announced last month that Miu Miu’s sales had risen by 89 per cent in the first quarter of this year, building on 58 per cent growth last year.
Launched in 1992 as a more affordable “little sister” range to Prada, Miu Miu is overshadowing its elder and more cerebral sibling, whose sales were up 7 per cent in the same period. According to its research, Lyst places Miu Miu as the hottest brand in the world by search data, with Prada in second place.
Nor is this the result of mere hype, claims Lyst. “Strong storytelling and cultural relevance sets Miu Miu apart,” says Katy Lubin, Lyst’s vice-president of communications. “The brand is seen as hot, but also timeless. Shoppers also love its distinctive styling, which has sparked a new obsession with underwear as outerwear.”
Indeed, thanks to Miu Miu, the “pants for day” trend has been gathering pace. Celebrities including Emma Corrin (who stars in the brand’s Holiday 2024 campaign), Bella Hadid and Alexa Chung have all recently stepped out in the challenging look, as well as a host of influencers on TikTok and Instagram. Like all of Miu Miu’s pants (previous iterations have included sequins and silk), its latest pair are perfectly placed to provide those all-important viral moments that so successfully drive sales.
But if Miu Miu is clever at creating virality (its spring 2022 micro-mini was another huge social media hit), there are other reasons for its stellar success. First, it’s designed by Miuccia Prada, the compelling 74-year-old Italian whose own sense of style meant she recently graced the cover of American Vogue. Unlike many brands that have floundered since their founders died, Prada and Miu Miu retain a sense of authenticity, combined with a strong point of view that many of their contemporaries lack.
Second, Miu Miu’s fashion shows are genuine talking points. As well as seating a phalanx of the coolest actresses, singers and influencers in the front row, the clothes on the catwalk are far more covetable – and easy to wear – than its expensive pants might suggest. At its most recent show, held in Paris in March, a diverse cast of women took to the catwalk, including supermodel Gigi Hadid, rapper Little Simz and actress Kristin Scott Thomas.
Scott Thomas is unlikely to be seen in Miu Miu’s pants any time soon. But the show’s casting neatly illustrated Miu Miu’s broad appeal among women in many different roles and life stages. Most of its customers aren’t pant-wearing influencers, but cash-rich, time-poor professionals looking for stylish wardrobe solutions that fit their busy lives.
Although the pants were styled in the womenswear show with shirts, sandals and trench coats, their unisex appeal hasn’t been lost on men. “If I bought them in all the colours, it would cost [$8000],” menswear stylist and consultant Simon Chilvers mused on Instagram. “Forced to pick one? It would be brown.”
Many men have noted their similarity to Speedos, a range of skimpy swimming briefs that were popular in the 1970s and ’80s.
Only Miu Miu could make budgie smugglers popular again. As for those who baulk at wearing them with nothing but a T-shirt and a smile, there is another way. Simply add a pair of jeans or shorts and pull up the briefs’ waistband, making sure that all-important logo is visible. As Miuccia Prada said backstage after the show: “The point is you can choose what you wear.” And – thankfully – how you wear it.
The Telegraph London
Subscribe to gift this article
Gift 5 articles to anyone you choose each month when you subscribe.
Subscribe nowAlready a subscriber?
Introducing your Newsfeed
Follow the topics, people and companies that matter to you.
Find out moreRead More
Latest In Fashion & style
Fetching latest articles